In the mountains, fatigue is the biggest controllable limitation that will come between you and success.

Steve House

Categorized in : Mountain Fatigue Limitation

You can’t coach desire, and no matter how fancy your training plan or how high your stated goals are, it comes down to getting out the door and doing the work day after day.

training goal doors

Within alpinism's narrow framework we seek transcendence and relentlessly pursue what remains hidden from us on flat ground: our true selves.

framework transcendence self

The depth of any story is proportionate to the protagonist's commitment to their goal, the complexity of the problem, and the grace of the solution.

grace goal commitment

Historically, many of the great names in alpine climbing seemed to have just gone climbing as training. In fact, the model alpinist has often portrayed himself in literature as a half-crazed nonconformist, living life on the edge every moment he's sober enough to climb. It is true that amazing feats of skill and daring have been accomplished using this rather random approach. For some climbers that "life on the edge" approach may be the only way they can accomplish these feats, but there are far better methods to prepare for the challenges of alpine climbing.

live-life skills names

In no organized sport do the participants have to endure days of struggle just to get to the starting line of their event. The option to drop out of a race that is going badly does not exist for a climber halfway up a big route, and may entail more risk than pushing on. A team of volunteers will not be waiting with warm blankets and hot food at the next bivy ledge. When you reach the summit, having overcome the challenges that inspired you for months or years, you are not at the finish line. The race is not over. You can't relax and let your guard down like a normal athlete.

team struggle sports

Climbers are a universal tribe: we share the knowledge that things are not important. Experience is important. Feeling is important.

climbing important feelings

I can respect the gulf that separates alpinism from a running race and still appreciate that the physiology that accounts for endurance is the same if you are running a foot race in the city park or front pointing up the second ice field on the north face of the Eiger.

race feet running

The simpler we make things, the richer the experiences become. by Steve House

The simpler we make things, the richer the experiences become.

You will never exploit your full technical capacity if your fitne... by Steve House

You will never exploit your full technical capacity if your fitness remains a weak link.

capacity weak links

Traveling fast over complex technical terrain requires a high level of technical ability and the endurance to support it. These two quite divergent capabilities need to be developed over years of practice. Omitting either limits your potential.

practice two years

We climbers have much to learn from the training done in conventi... by Steve House

We climbers have much to learn from the training done in conventional sports.

training done sports

Alpinism places unique demands on its practitioners. by Steve House

Alpinism places unique demands on its practitioners.

alpinism demand unique

Many would argue that alpinism is art, not sport. by Steve House

Many would argue that alpinism is art, not sport.

arguing sports art

Conventional sports have undergone an evolution in training methods during the last fifty years. Curiosity and the inherent improvement brought about by competition have driven this evolution to a state of high refinement such that today's athletes have a very specialized approach to training at the elite levels.

athlete sports years

On big routes in big mountains, speed equals safety. by Steve House

On big routes in big mountains, speed equals safety.

mountain speed safety

The descent is often as much (or more of) a challenge as the clim... by Steve House

The descent is often as much (or more of) a challenge as the climb.

descent climbs challenges