There's a risk to everything you do. You can take off on a one-foot wave and get hurt; you can take off on a ten-foot wave and get hurt. You just don't think about it at all. You just go for it. When you kick out of a really big wave, it feels pretty damn good. You want to do it again.

John John Florence

Categorized in : You Think Good Hurt

When you start forcing things, that's when you get hurt.

John John Florence

start things you hurt

I still get scared every time I go out. I get scared taking off; I get scared on the wave, falling, everything. But, you know, growing up with it, I guess you're a little more comfortable.

John John Florence

know you growing-up time

I love it when people make things look fun and easy. Guys like Dane Reynolds and Kelly Slater and Pedro on a skateboard, they're never forcing it.

John John Florence

look fun love people

The place where I grew up is the center of surfing. Everyone who grows up on the North Shore surfs, and from October to March, you have the best waves in the world within a 5- to 7-mile stretch. I grew up in the center of these incredible sunsets and all these incredible waves. And then we have the Triple Crown of Surfing.

John John Florence

place best you world

That's such a common saying: Just be present, live in the moment. But there's actually really something to it when you really start to learn it.

John John Florence

live start moment you

The best version of surfing is not competing, I think. It's just... it's perfect. You're perfectly present. You're perfectly in the moment. You're perfectly not thinking about anything else in the world. You're just surfing. You're surfing away with your friends or your family, and that's it. You're just there.

John John Florence

best moment you family

I'd be in elementary school all week, and then on the weekend, my mom would take us to Kauai or to the Big Island or to California for a contest. That was really fun.

John John Florence

weekend mom fun school

I'm excited to go surfing every time. I have fun in any kind of wave in the ocean.

John John Florence

have-fun ocean time fun

Winning a world title has always been the dream and ultimate goal.

John John Florence

always dream winning world

Every part of me is a surfer. I love surfing, and I love the waves that I surf. So that's the thing that I get excited about most: What kind of waves am I going to be able to surf? Am I going to be surfing alone, or will we be surfing waves that no one's surfed before? Second to that is photography.

John John Florence

waves alone me love

You just keep doing stuff, and one thing evolves into another. Then suddenly it's like, 'Oh, wait, I'm here surfing against Kelly Slater and all these guys I grew up watching.'

John John Florence

wait watching doing you

You go to a contest, and it's like, 'OK, I'm here for two weeks. All my energy, time, thinking, and everything is going toward that.' Everything you're doing is building toward the score at the end.

John John Florence

end you time thinking

I think winning the world tour events is pretty special. They're just so hard to win.

John John Florence

win think winning world

I just want to be able surf everything - from big waves to small waves.

John John Florence

waves small everything want

I want to win a world title for sure. When I'm a little bit older, I'll have a lot of time to free-surf in my life. So I would love to win a world title.

John John Florence

my-life time love life

Going to contests back to back, World Tour and Primes, I've noticed a lot more things with my surfing that could be improved for my heats to improve. Staying focused throughout all of those events for months at a time is hard to adjust to but definitely fun.

John John Florence

back time fun world

No one wants to tell you their secrets, because you never know when you might get a heat with them.

John John Florence

secrets never know you

You have to go into every event with 100 percent confidence and just surf your best because everyone there is there to win, and no one is going to give you the heat. You have to win by a mile to really make a heat.

John John Florence

best win you confidence

One of my biggest influences growing up was Jamie O'Brien. He was like an older brother to me.

John John Florence

like me growing-up brother

Africa is one of my favorite places because there are so many things to do - either surfing or going to see the animals. You can drive two hours or six hours up the coast - or just 15 minutes up the road - and it's probably something you haven't seen before.

John John Florence

road drive see you